Hi Steve, 3dB is about right. For voltage gain dB = 20 log (G1/G2) 20 log (52/36) = 3.2dB. The original unit was the Bel (sp ?) which is the log of a power ratio. 1 Bel = log (P1/P2) The Bel is an inconveniently large unit so the decibel is normally used. 1 dB = 10 log (P1/P2) Power is proportional to voltage squared so 1 dB = 10 log ((V1/V2)^2) or 1 dB = 20 log (V1/V2) Dave Rather than just come up with raw numbers which we might not know how to interpret (like the 3Hz vs. 8Hz figures you came up with). Steve, You can interpret the raw numbers like this - The -3dB frequency of the filter is given by F=1/(2*PI*RxC) ie. F is inversely proportional to both the resistor and capacitor so if you double the value of either the R or C the -3dB frequency is halved. If you halve the R or C then the -3dB frequency is doubled. What happens at frequencies other than the -3dB point depends on whether the filter is high pass or low pass. For Mook’s high pass filter the -3dB point is at 8Hz. This is a HIGH PASS filter so frequencies ABOVE 8Hz are not attenuated. Frequencies below 8Hz will be attenuated at a rate of 6dB/octave (=20dB/decade). If you double the capacitor the -3dB point will be 4Hz. All the attenuation is below the -3dB point and both 4 and 8 Hz are already way below anything you can hear or get out of a guitar so changing the cap should not make an audible difference. For a LOW PASS filter frequencies BELOW the -3dB point are not attenuated. Frequencies above the -3dB point will be attenuated at a rate of 6dB/octave. A bit of (not too serious) theory for you - The reason the filter ultimately has a slope of -6dB per octave is because the capacitor impedance is inversely proportional to frequency. A low pass filter is like a 2 resistor potential divider with the bottom resistor replaced by a cap. When the frequency doubles (an octave) the capacitor impedance is halved so the output of the potential divider is halved which is -6dB (20log0.5 = -6). When the frequency increases by a decade the cap impedance is divided by 10 so the output of the filter is divided by 10 which is -20dB (20log0.1 = -20). Dave Doc hornerwr@dayzim.com 7/30/98 7:41 AM As you probably know, the decibel isn't an absolute quantity, but a ratio of two quantities. When you're speaking of power, the expression is decibels equals ten times the log of the power ratio. The ratio is the reultant power divided by the initial power. When dealing with sound pressure level, the initial power reference is 1 milliwatt. Sounds louder than that will have a positive db level and sounds softer than that will have a negative db level. It's easy to construct a table for your particular application using your trusty pocket calculator. Some books on speaker system design, or theater audio systems should have decibel tables. Hi Steve, Some comments... 1) A change of 20 dB/decade and a change of 6 dB/octave are exactly the same. Here's how it works: If we have a change of 20 dB in one decade, how much of a change will there be in one octave ? Look at a logarithmic plot, and you will see that 2 Hz is about a third of the way between 1Hz and 10Hz. The relationship between decades and octaves is given by: log(2)/log(10) = 0.30103 This means that one octave is 'worth' 0.30103 decades. Suppose we have a 20 dB magnitude change for every decade of frequency change. One octave is worth 0.30103 decades, so the amount of change will be: 20 dB/decade * 0.30103 decades/octave = 6.02 dB/octave It seems that audio people talk about 6 dB/octave, because people can hear a frequency change of one octave. Control systems people (like me) use 20 dB/decade. Both terms refer to the same slope, and both are correct and interchangable. 2) A change from a .022 to .047 capacitor is a doubling in capacitance. This changes the low-pass cutoff by only one octave, not two. Steve, you might want to go to the MicroSim site and download a demo version of PSpice. You can run your own simulations and see for yourself how these circuits work. Trust me, if you think Dave Cigna's tone control simulator is interesting, you'll love PSpice. Also, I just got a copy of "Valve Amplifiers", by Morgan Jones. It has really, really good explainations of the various tube amp circuits. It also describes what those funny numbers and curvey lines in the spec sheets are all about. At this point, you seem to know enough about tweaking amps. It's time to get serious about theory. (moocow)